Not ideal but that approach also works as long as you then don't worry that for that capacity it could have been so much more. From that I learned it's easier to just increase the cc's as much as possible and sod how efficient it is. Getting everything right is a lot of things to balance for a non-stock engine. But there were other things I didn't understand like the effect of the exhaust primaries size (J-tubes in my case), valve sizes and so on so it went really well in some conditions (lots of revs) but was pretty poor low down. I think it's fair to say that if you're rebuilding stock as stock really you should be able to simply replace parts without worrying and maybe that was once true (me again).īut I also built an out of the ordinary one where I did have to change conrod length and pin height and combustion chamber size and shim the barrels to get the right deck etc and it really did pay off. You know - working out what they should have bought by learning about engine spec and CR etc AFTER they bought the parts - I'm certainly one of them! Yet another band of people just build it without even doing the research before or after with varying amount of success based on luck (I fit in there too). Very happy to be educated here, I'm not trying to be argumentative or suchlike, but just trying to understand so that I can make the right choice!Ĭlick to expand.Most people go round this loop I think. I'm getting confused as why I have these gaskets in the rebuild kit, but it seems you can't get the 1.6mm replacemement shims. Is this essential or just recommended, as given these calculations it appears to me that I can use the gaskets as provided in the 2lt engine rebuild kit (why are they still selling if not OK to use) and I'd get a poor but acceptable CR of 7.49:1 I think it was who stated that both these gaskets/shims should be ditched and replaced with a 1.6mm shim between case and cylinder. Check out free battery charging and engine diagnostic testing while you are in store. Thus the old engine would have had 1.35mm relative deck height (0.2+0.45+0.7)Īnd the new build would have a 1.03mm relative deck height (0.2+0.13+0.7) and a compression of 7.49.1 Order Porsche 914 Exhaust Flange Gasket online today. I've added the 0.7mm gasket in (though I know your supposed to ditch) as it explains why the old engine had OK CR, and if I rebuilt with same gaskets I'd also get acceptable. NB - this includes allowing for both the gaskets that came off the old engine AND are part of the rebuild kit (0.2mm (Block-Cylinder) + 0.7mm (Cylinder-Head.)) The Piston to head clearance is measured with the 0.2mm bottom gasket in place and so allows for that 0.2mm thickness. So, Compression is recalculated again below. So, measured Cylinder Head volume at 54cc, plus double-checked and they are NOT stepped, they are original VW 071-101-371A heads.
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